Yamazaki 50 Years Old

I’ve drunk some pricey drinks in my time. I tried a shot of Sunny Brook Rye from 1892 for ¥20,000, and last week I drank my first ¥7,000 cocktail (a highball made with Hakushu 25 Years Old, which is sure to raise the ire of any self-respecting whisky fan, but a shot of that stuff was ¥16,000, so the highball was the cheapest way to taste it. No, it wasn’t worth it.)
But I set what I expect to be a long-serving record tonight. Not in price terms – I believe I paid a little under ¥9,000 – but in yen per millilitre.
Check the picture. That’s how much I got. The price for a regular shot of Yamazaki 50 Years Old is ¥90,000 at Wodka Tonic in Nishi Azabu. For Golden Week they’re offering half off every drink in the bar. Which brings it to ¥45,000.

Yamazaki 50 is the oldest Japanese whisky ever released. It was priced at ¥1million per bottle, but still sold out the day it was released.

“What’s the smallest serving you’ll pour?” I asked, because I have no shame.

The bartenders conferred and said “10 mls.”

“I’ll take it,” I said. And the bartender readied the glass.

Then it occurred to me that ten millilitres of a ¥90,000 shot was still quite a bit. So I asked how much I’d just agreed to spend.

With the current 50% discount offer: ¥17,500.

“And so five mls would be half of that price?” I asked, because as I mentioned, I have no shame.

And that’s what you see in the picture above. Five millilitres of whisky.

My drinking companions both looked aghast, but they were both Scottish, and a Scotsman wouldn’t pay that much for a house. They didn’t mind sticking their tongue in my drink though.

Was it worth it? Of course not. ¥9,000 is too much for 5 millilitres of anything. Except maybe unicorn milk or an angel’s tears. It was a very good whisky, and showed what Japanese Mizunara oak can achieve.

Palate: Rich, rich, richer than Warren Buffet after a lottery win, but not in a sherry-rich sense. It was gentler, perhaps a bit incense-y, but had lost any semblance of being what I think of as a Yamazaki (I drink the 10 Year Old at home as a nightcap or for breakfast).

Mouthfeel: no idea, I only had about three millilitres after the jocks took their sip.

Finish: that also, apparently, takes more than three millilitres to deliver.

Overall, it wasn’t the bragging experience I was hoping for, and I’d much rather have a Hakushu 25 Years Old, though not in a highball. I’d probably also rather have the ¥9,000, but at least I know now.

3 Comments »

  1. [...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by nicholas coldicott. nicholas coldicott said: I summoned the courage to order a dribble of Yamazaki 50 Yrs Old: http://drinks.coldicott.net/yamazaki-50-years-old/ [...]

  2. [...] Yamazaki 50 Years Old – The liquid adventures of Nicholas ColdicottYamazaki 50 Years Old. Published on 02/05/10 by Coldicott. I’ve drunk some pricey drinks in my time. I tried a shot of Sunny Brook Rye from 1892 for ¥20000, … [...]

  3. Martin says:

    I love that lovely glass in which the Yamazaki was served !
    Any idea where to buy ?

    kind regards

    Martin

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Of gobs and goblets


I’m utterly obsessed by glasses, and how their shape affects the taste of the drink. It amazes and upsets me that bartenders will serve shots that cost more than ¥10,000 and pour them into a glass that will bury the character. And I know that very few people believe it matters, so a few years ago I wrote a piece for the Japan Times trying to convince people. And for the latest edition of Whisky Magazine Japan, I investigated whisky glass shapes. Here’s the English translation. Breath in, it’s gonna get obsessive.

(Photos by Julen Estebal-Pretel)
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Kilchoman x Chichibu

Earlier this year I took Anthony Wills of Islay’s new(ish) craft distillery Kilchoman to Chichibu to chat with Ichiro Akuto and poke his nose around Japan’s newest distillery.

I wanted to eavesdrop on a conversation between Wills and Akuto because, for me, these men have built the two most exciting new distilleries and are producing exceptional young drinks (Kilchoman had yet to release a 4-year-old, and Chichibu was still offering new make).

The article is out, in Japanese, in the latest issue of Whisky Magazine Japan, but here’s an English translation.
Details »

Yamazaki 50 Years Old

I’ve drunk some pricey drinks in my time. I tried a shot of Sunny Brook Rye from 1892 for ¥20,000, and last week I drank my first ¥7,000 cocktail (a highball made with Hakushu 25 Years Old, which is sure to raise the ire of any self-respecting whisky fan, but a shot of that stuff was ¥16,000, so the highball was the cheapest way to taste it. No, it wasn’t worth it.)
But I set what I expect to be a long-serving record tonight. Not in price terms – I believe I paid a little under ¥9,000 – but in yen per millilitre.
Check the picture. That’s how much I got. The price for a regular shot of Yamazaki 50 Years Old is ¥90,000 at Wodka Tonic in Nishi Azabu. Details »

What highball fever?

There’s only one bar in Tokyo that’s been unaffected by the recent highball fever: Rockfish in Ginza. Before the Kaku highball campaign was even a twinkle in Suntory’s marketing schedule, Kazunari Maguchi of Rockfish was turning out an almost uninterrupted stream of whisky & sodas, and while every other bartender in the country is reporting a huge spike in highball orders, Maguchi says it’s just business as usual at Rockfish, where highballs have always accounted for over 90% of the orders.

There is something uniquely refreshing about a Rockfish highball. Maguchi makes his without ice, so you can take a proper thrist-quenching swig of the drink. He also makes a drink that tastes of whisky, which is a nice departure from the ice-filled Kaku highballs that most places are turning out, which have just a twinkle of whisky taste.

Last Saturday Maguchi taught me his highball technique for a Whisky Magazine Japan feature. Here’s how it goes:
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